The top memory in everyone’s mind that were lucky enough to spend Easter in Andros as kids is the preparation of Labriatis. This is the name for the stuffed lamb eaten in Lambri (=Easter Sunday), instead of the roasted one, the tradition in most other regions of Greece.
I remember as a kid, Holy Saturday was a big day in my aunt’s house in the old town in Chora. Preparation would start since Good Friday evening. The 33 eggs, as many as Jesus age, were put aside, some boiled ready to go in the lamb’s belly on Saturday morning. My aunt would ask me to peel the boiled eggs and cut the local cheese, “petroti”, in pieces. She would sauté the greens and lightly cooked the lamb’s liver. All this would be mixed gently and stuff the belly. Then the needle would come out with a thick piece of string to close the belly nicely. My cousin and I would take the heavy tray to the bakery. We were in Chora but in the villages Labriatis would be cooked in a traditional oven and the taste would be even better. If you find yourself in Andros for Easter look for Labriatis. There are several similar recipes of the famous dish. All of them are equally tasty.